The Pocket Sommelier

Make the most out of the summer with a picnic and wine

2011-08-11T10:32:00.002-04:00

It’s already August and most of us are probably wondering how summer is passing us so quickly! Why not explore the great outdoors with a picnic and wine? Whether you have it in the local park, beach or in your garden, it’s time to make the most out of the sunshine.

Essentially, picnics are enjoyed in the daytime to make the most out of having good weather; therefore it makes sense to choose lighter wines to go with your food and nibbles that won’t make you tired for the rest of the day.

There are a few whites that will suit picnics, which generally have less than 10% alcohol, including German Rieslings which have a perky delicacy that makes them reviving and great for a light lunch or nibbles in the great outdoors.

However, we understand that not all of us will be convinced to drink Riesling. Alternatives to low alcohol white wine include, the northern Portugal vinho verde which has a citrus quality and also the cool savoury Semillon from Australia’s Hunter Valley. If you fancy some bubbles alongside your picnic, why not enjoy the lightness of a prosecco such as La Marca Treviso Extra Dry, Italy NV. For serious bubbles, have a moscato d'asti champagne with your strawberries.

Most picnics will include some meat dishes, including fish and cold meats to go with a seasonal salad or in a sandwich. Crisp Provençal rosés would go well with these meats, but if you are more a red wine fan, light reds from Loire and Beaujolais also make great accompaniment to a summer picnic.

Alfresco restaurants that have alcohol licenses and restaurant insurance quotes aren’t the only places where you can enjoy a glass of wine outdoors.
Let us know if you have explored any glorious picnic wines and would like to make some recommendations.

Château Puygueraud 2006

2011-03-26T12:57:00.020-04:00

2006 was another warm growing season in Bordeaux, resulting in full-bodied wines. The reds of Château Puygueraud, one of the right bank's more reliable, are no exception, weighing in at 13.5% alc/vol and is fully dry.

This château originates in the small appellation of Côtes de Francs, situated between St-Émilion and Bergerac. Vines here are planted on high clay-limestone slopes, enjoying a favourable south west south exposure. It is a red wine growing region, producing well-structured blends dominated by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Typical of right bank wines, this year's version is almost 3/4 Merlot.

The wine is a ruby red, with subtle aromas of raspberry, blackberry and currant. I detect a slight earthiness, and some medicinal notes, probably from the Cabernet Franc. Definitely some clove notes too, but you have to search for them.

With its grainy mouthfeel, this wine could probably use a couple more years of ageing, but the creaminess makes up for it. The wine finishes with a nice medium-long berry flavour.

Côtes de Francs usually produces some of the best value wine in Bordeaux. A bottle of Château Puygueraud will not drain your bank account - you can probably find some starting at around $20, depending on where you live.

Wine Stocking Stuffer for under $5

2010-11-03T11:18:00.008-04:00

Looking for the perfect stocking stuffer for the wine aficionado? The Pocket Sommelier has both the Wine Tasting Guide & Journal and Australia Wine - A Beginner's Guide available in paperback for $2.95 each (plus shipping and handling). You may order from the "Buy Now!" buttons found on the right hand side of this blog.

Wine Tasting Event

2010-10-26T15:36:00.005-04:00

Are you planning on holding a wine tasting event? The Pocket Sommelier - Wine Tasting Guide & Journal is the perfect accompaniment for any wine tasting get together - suitable for the novice and expert alike! Contact Chris at pocketsommelier@yahoo.ca for package pricing.

Oakville

2010-09-09T14:51:00.004-04:00

Napa Valley's Oakville AVA is the location of Robert Mondavi’s famous winery built in 1966. Although it is located in the north part of the valley, it is still far enough south to benefit from some maritime influence. Varietals produced here include meaty Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese. On the west side of the valley the soil is alluvian, with good drainage and low fertility; the valley floor is composed of rich loam and promotes easy ripening.

The Oakville AVA can be further divided into districts:

Oak Knoll

Oak Knoll is the coolest, most southern of the districts within Oakville. Produced here is fine Riesling and long-lived Cabernet.

Yountville

Yountville is slightly warmer than Oak Knoll. Here, Merlot does well in the clay soil.

St. Helena

St. Helena is home to most of California’s larger wineries, many of which source much of their grapes and finished wine from other parts of Napa for blending. Sutter Home is located here – they are famous for the creation of the sweet pink “White” Zinfandel beverage, made from grapes brought in from the Central Valley. Beringer, on the other hand, focuses on the production of fine reds and whites. In addition to the big players, St. Helena is also home to a number of small-scale “cult” producers.

Calistoga

Calistoga is located on northend of the valley, surrounded by mountains. Spring frosts can pose a problem here. The soil is volcanic.

Diamond Mountain & Spring Mountain

Diamond Mountain & Spring Mountain are home to cooler vineyards, producing wines with more subtlety.

Mount Veeder

The soils of Mount Veeder are thin, acidic and volcanic, producing tough, yet distinctive wine.

Howell Mountain

Howell Mountain is a cool growing area.

Atlas Peak

Grapes were first planted in the Atlas Peak district as far back as 1870. The vineyards are cool, planted at high altitudes, and on thin soil. The Cabernet Sauvignon here exhibits bright fruit, accentuated by its natural high acidity. A number of Italian varietals are also planted here by notable Italian producer Antinori. Atlas Peak has such a good reputation that not much effort is needed to sell them, in fact, wines have to be allocated to purchasers.

Anything but Merlot?

2010-07-16T08:11:00.000-04:00

Merlot became fashionable as a single varietal in Califonia in the 1980s, and a boom in plantings quickly followed. It is a soft, gentle, kind wine appropriate for everyday drinking. Generally full of ripe red fruit, California Merlot is rich and structured, with a touch of sweet oak and gentle tannins – it is not a wine that requires long-term ageing. For most, it’s considered a “soft” alternative to Cabernet Sauvignon.

California's "Fumé Blanc"

2010-07-14T10:37:00.003-04:00

California Sauvignon Blanc is made in a variety of styles, the predominant style being a dry wine free from the famous “herbaceousness” found in those of New Zealand and the Loire Valley of France. The wine is usually vinified dry and introduced to oak, either during fermentation and/or aging, in order to impart some sweetness. The oak may also be used to add a bit of smokiness, a method pioneered by the Robert Mondavi winery in the 1970s, in their development of the so-called “Fumé Blanc”. If any herbaceousness persists, a small amount of residual sugar may also be added.

Napa Valley

2010-05-07T09:25:00.005-04:00

Napa Valley is the top wine region in California, fully planted with wine grapes. Wine production here represents 20% of the market value of the wine of California, yet only 4% of the volume. In fact, it is much smaller than its neighbour Sonoma, and only about 17th the size of Bordeaux.

Napa wine is a glamourous, heavily capitalized industry. Tourism is a very important component here, complete with high end restaurants, art galleries and gift shops. There are approximately 400 wineries supplied by 700 grape growers. Common practice is for wineries to grow little produce of their own, instead relying on grapes grown by others, and/or even buying finished wine and blending it. This philosophy produces consistent and well balanced wines, but at the expense of any unique characteristics of specific place, or “terroir”.

Wine styles in Napa will vary mainly due to the location, altitude and wine making philosophy. 20 miles from end to end, the region has a diverse climate. The southern end is cool and foggy, suitable for fine Chardonnay production, yet the northern part is very hot and home to rich red wines with ripe tannins. The best Cabernet Sauvignon is found in between, in climates that allow for late ripening.

Elevation also plays a factor – hillside-grown grapes produce wines with more structure and concentration than the wines from grapes sourced from the valley floor. Grapes grown at the higher altitudes above the fog line receive more morning sunshine and are cooled by afternoon mountain breezes, while the valley floor traps intense heat for much of the day. The soil varies as well, where as the valley floor is deep and composed of fertile alluvial clay, the valley sides are thin, old, and less fertile.

Cabernet Sauvignon is Napa’s grape and it produces some of the world’s most successful. It can usually be drunk after 3 or 4 years, however the best can last for 50 years. Common practice in Napa is allow for extended “hang time”, where growers keep the grapes on for longer than traditionally done in Bordeaux in order to achieve super-ripe, super-alcoholic wine. Other varietals that thrive here are Syrah, Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay.

Dry Creek Valley

2010-05-03T13:19:00.002-04:00

The Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma is a warm growing area prone to dampness. As such, the valley floor is better suited for white wines, such as Sauvignon Blanc. The fuller-bodied wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, are made of grapes grown on the east side of the valley, where they are exposed to longer periods of heat, including the setting sun, and are planted above the fog line. Along these hillside benches, the climate is drier, with well-drained gravel and red clay soil.

The Russian River Valley

2010-04-27T08:58:00.004-04:00

The Russina River Valley is an AVA in Sonoma, and one of the coolest in the region. Traditionally an apple growing area, wine grapes have all but replaced the apple crop in the RRV, now the focus of fine wine production in northern California.

The RRV’s most notable grape is Pinot Noir, a varietal that thrives in the RRV’s cooling afternoon fogs. It is a rich wine, complete with red berry fruit flavours, yet refreshingly acidic. The best grapes are usually found planted in east-facing vineyards – this reduces heat exposure that commonly causes over-ripening and raisining in the hotter climes of California.

The cooler vineyards of the RRV also produce Burgundian-style Chardonnay and grapes for sparkling wine production. Vineyards established above the fog line experience warmer temperatures, and are therefore more suitable for producing quality Zinfandel and Syrah.

Sonoma

2010-04-26T13:55:00.007-04:00

Sonoma is a coastal wine region, located north of San Francisco. Sonoma's wine industry was first established by Franciscan monks, who in 1832 founded their last and most northernly vineyard at Mission San Francisco de Solano. Secular producers eventually followed by producing finer wine for the mass market. The region’s industry was eventually completely devastated, however, by the Phylloxera epidemic and subsequent Prohibition legislation. The industry eventually re-emerged after World War II, with the white wine boom of the 1970s and 80s establishing Chardonnay as its most planted variety.

Sonoma is close to the ocean coast and therefore enjoys a cooler climate than its famous neighbour to the east, Napa Valley. The southern portion of the region is coolest, thanks to a gap in the Coastal Ranges that allow the penetration of cooling Pacific fog and breezes. The best vineyards are located on mountain sides. Today, Sonoma contains 10 separate AVAs and has emerged as a region for quality wine, one that also grows far more grapes than Napa.

A Moment of "Zin"

2010-04-14T08:08:00.005-04:00

Good ‘ol Zin – known as “California’s grape”. However, it is not native to California – its roots have been traced back to Croatia and is commonly found in the warm region of Puglia, Italy, where it is known as “Primitivo” and usually sold in bulk for blending. The first vine cuttings of Zin were brought to California by Italian settlers beginning in the 18th century.

Most beginner-level wine drinkers probably know of the famous (or infamous) pink coloured “White Zinfandel” blush-style wine, a sweet, raspberry intense easy drinking plonk. As you mount the scale of quality, you’ll find an inexpensive light Beaujolais style red wine. Then there’s the good stuff, much of it made from the grapes of 100-year old vines – deep purple-red, high alcohol content, with highly concentrated ripe berry, blueberry, tea leaf flavours and aromas. The Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma produces some of the best Zin out there.

Pinot Noir – Why California?

2010-04-13T13:14:00.005-04:00

Burgundy is Pinot Noir, but outside of Pinot's traditional home, California is king. The best examples are produced in California’s cooler wine regions, such as the Russian River Valley, Carneros and Santa Barbara – areas whose climates are tempered by the effects of coastal fogs. The fog arrives mid-morning, and lingers long enough to ensure the development of adequate levels of acidity, eventually giving way to warmer weather in the afternoon and evening, perfect for the development of ripe, intense red fruit characteristics. The wines are well-balanced and good for ageing, but can be drunk earlier than Burgundy.

California Cab

2010-04-12T09:32:00.005-04:00

Cabernet Sauvignon first arrived in California in the form of vine cuttings from Bordeaux in the 19th century. After a rocky history with the Phylloxera epidemic and Prohibition, it returned with a vengeance after World War II. Two contrasting styles emerged, one being an expensive, age worthy style, and the other being the infamous cheap, jug version. By the 1970s an in-between style of affordable quality was developed through the experimentation of plantings in diverse micro-climates.

The Napa Valley (more specifically the mid-Napa) produces the best Cabernet Sauvignon wine in California, thanks to its long, hot summers. The Napa style is a deep-black wine of high alcohol content, thickly textured, tannic, concentrated, and age able up to 10 to 20 years. This style was typical up to the 1970s and is still very common today. The best are world-class, sleek and fruit-filled.

Cabernet Sauvignon is also produced in California’s cooler climates. The Cab here is very different, exhibiting aromas of bell pepper, asparagus and green bean – characteristics of wine made from unfully ripened grapes. These wines can also suffer from over-oaking, resulting in wines with a woody taste.

Pocket Sommelier Paperbacks now only $2.95!

2010-04-12T09:13:00.004-04:00

Thanks to a reduction in production costs, The Pocket Sommelier is pleased to announce that the Wine Tasting Guide & Journal and Australia Wine - A Beginner's Guide can no be purchased for the low price of $2.95 each (plus S&H)! Customers may order using the "Buy Now" buttons found to the right of this page.

Wines of South America Guide in the Works

2010-03-24T08:00:00.005-04:00

Buenos Dias to all our South American readers, especially to those in Argentina, from where we attract a large audience. The Pocket Sommelier is proud to announce that the development of a guide to South American wines is in the works. Whether you are a fan of Mendoza Malbec or Maipo's Carmenère, you'll find this guide quite interesting and useful.

The American Viticulture Area

2010-03-24T07:59:00.001-04:00

The American Viticulture Area system, or AVA, was implemented in 1983 as a sort of a controlled appellation system for United States wine. In general, the wine must have at least 85% of its grapes grown in the specified area. There are over 180 AVAs in the United States, about 100 of them located in California alone. Many of the AVAs are small, with just a few large ones.

The criteria for AVAs are drived more by political reasons than based on “terroir”, whereas in Europe the concept of place is the cornerstone of the system. As such, there is not much credence held in the AVA system.

California Chardonnay

2010-03-23T09:15:00.008-04:00

Since the 1980s, California has had more Chardonnay vines than the whole of France. The popularity of Chardonnay was cemented in California in the 1970s. The style that made it popular was one very similar to the popular Australian-style - it was rich, golden, overblown, and infused with sweet new oak.

Today’s producers of fine California Chardonnay are striving for more subtle wines with more structure, much like those of Chablis, that are lean, green and biting. The best areas for Chardonnay are those with cooler climates, such as Carneros and Sonoma Valley. The wine found in these areas is more Burgundian in style, with high levels of acidity and infusions of French oak. Some of the premium producers even avoid the common use of filtration in order to retain all the flavours and rich texture in the wine. The best examples exhibit fresh acidity, complete with ripe citrus and tropical (pineapple) flavours and aromas. They are not truly age-worthy wine, but after 2 years they are ready to be drunk.

California is truly heaven for the Chardonnay enthusiast – a diversity of styles exist here, reflecting unique terroir of diverse microclimates and wine making skill.

The Golden State's Quality Revolution

2010-03-19T08:47:00.003-04:00

The post-prohibition resurgence of California’s wine industry was dominated by the production of inexpensive bulk “jug” wine. In the background, however, a number of small producers were establishing themselves. A strategy of differentiation, through the promotion of their artisanal and individual image, allowed small producers to win a share of the market. Some were so successful that they became large producers themselves, while still retaining their commitment to quality.

The world first acknowledged California’s ability to produce world class wines in the 1970s at the famous “Paris Tasting” of 1976 - a number of international producers went head-to-head with France’s best in a blind tasting judged by some of France’s most disconcerting tasters. To everyone’s surprise, especially the French, California’s Chateau Montelena ’73 won best Chardonnay, and Stag’s Leap ’73 won best Cabernet Sauvignon.

Large producers took notice of this growing market for premium quality wines by making their own move into it, without sacrificing quantity. They seperated the higher quality product from their traditional cheap bulk wines by establishing seperate brands for their more expensive, finer wines.

The quality revolution matured in the 1980 and 1990s with the establishment of a new generation of small-scale producers, strictly focused on fine wine, giving rise to the “Boutique Winery”.

California’s Wine Renaissance

2010-03-03T08:37:00.001-05:00

Prior to World War II, Americans drank little wine, in fact they drank less than 2 litres of wine on average per year. However, the post WW II period saw a gradual increase in consumption among Americans, booming to 8 litres per year in the 1970s, eventually leveling off to 7 litres by the mid 1990s.

The emerging new attitude towards wine consumption provided an opportunity for California wine producers. Production of wine in California in the late 1950s was approximately 28 million per year, but by the mid 1970s, California was producing close to 200 million gallons and by 1996, 340 million gallons. California was dominating the United States wine industry by the 1960s and has not looked back.

During this rebirth, there was a significant increase in the number of plantings, and the planting of better varieties. Other improvements made in the California vineyard included the overall improvement of viticultural practices, including active disease control and the introduction of mechanization in the form of specialized tractors to aid in pruning.

The 1950s and 60s also saw the rise of the large wine company, such as Gallo. This was a period of consolidation. Two sectors of the California wine industry eventually emerged – large companies specializing in bulk wine production and small producers supplying a limited, better quality product.

California's "European Invasion"

2010-02-23T10:44:00.001-05:00

The 1850s saw the establishment of the Los Angeles-area viticulture industry, an industry large enough to ship product north to supply the demands of San Francisco. Jean-Louis Vignes, a Bordelais, established the first commercial winery in the region, and focused on producing wine made from European vines, instead of the Mission variety, which was beginning to decline in importance. By the 1860s, wine was being exported to the eastern United States, usually as fortified or white wine.

Around this same time Napa and Sonoma began to emerge in the north, backed by a demand from the Gold Rush. European vines were planted throughout and by the 1860s northern California had overtaken southern California in plantings. Sonoma and Napa’s dominance was inevitable - they had the advantage of a close, lucrative market in San Francisco, whereas Los Angeles suffered from the high transportation costs of getting their product north.

The Death of the California Wine Industry

2010-02-22T09:59:00.003-05:00

Just as the California wine industry was coming into its own, the Phylloxera Epidemic struck in 1873. Phylloxera, a vine killing louse native to North America, had killed a significant number of vines in Sonoma by 1880. By 1900, only a couple of thousand acres of vines remained in Napa. The entire industry almost completely wiped-out by 1915.

There was a sort of re-birth soon after, however - the grafting of American rootstock onto European vines and new investment subsequent to World War I gave California new hope. Unfortunately, just as the industry was re-establishing itself, legislation in the form of Prohibition implemented in the 1920s dealt California wine its final blow. It would take the repeal of Prohibition 13 years later and another 40 years to recover to a major wine producing region.

The Mission Grape

2010-02-19T14:43:00.003-05:00

Mission is a black grape first brought to southern California, from Mexico, by Franciscan monks in the late 18th century. The grape spread northwards with the missions, arriving in the 1820s in the area of Napa and Sonoma, north of what is now known as San Francisco.

The mission at San Gabriel, near modern day Los Angeles, was the biggest producer of Mission wine. By the early 19th century, it produced over 35,000 gallons of a sweet-style wine for sacremental purposes.

The dominance of the mission wineries began to disappear in the 1830s - large-scale viticulture began to appear following the Mexican government's secularization of the industry, leading to the establishment of privately owned vineyards.

Mission is still a commonly found wine grape in Chile and Argentina, but is of no commercial importance in California.

The "Father" of California Wine Making

2010-02-16T14:58:00.003-05:00

Up until the mid 19th Century, California wine was pretty much limited to a sweet, sacramental-style wine made from the Mission grape. The 1860s saw the beginning of a movement toward better quality wine. The man generally credited with the beginnings of the movement was Agoston Harazthy, a Hungarian, who today is referred to as “The Father” of California wine-making. His Buena Vista Vineyard in Sonoma was substantial and produced the grapes that earned him a number of wine making awards in state competitions.

Sideways Fan?

2010-02-01T08:58:00.001-05:00

We will explore the wine industry of Santa Barbara and the Central Coast in our upcoming series on California wine.

Wine Tasting Party Package

2009-11-14T14:56:00.003-05:00

Planning on holding a wine tasting party? Why not try one of our publications? If you need multiple copies, contact Pocket at pocketsommelier@yahoo.ca for package pricing.

RA Centre Craft Show - Ottawa

2009-11-09T11:07:00.004-05:00

Pocket Sommelier publications will be available for purchase at the RA Centre Craft Show Sunday, November 29, 2008 10:00 AM to 4:00 AM.
The RA Centre is located at 2451 Riverside Dr., Ottawa, Ontario. Free parking and admission.

California Wine

2009-10-31T09:01:00.004-04:00

Join the Pocket Sommelier over the next few months as we explore the wine industry of California.

Guide to Australian Wine

2009-10-23T12:23:00.003-04:00

Our latest compilation, Australia Wine - A Beginner's Guide, is now available in electronic ($1.25) and paperback ($3.95 + S&H) formats. This guide provides an overview of Australia's wine scene including its history, grapes, regions and labelling regulation - an indispensable guide for the wine appreciation beginner. A free preview is available from this site.

Stocking Stuffer Solution

2009-10-22T09:46:00.003-04:00

Are you looking for that perfect stocking stuffer for the vinophile in your life? Why not give The Pocket Sommelier - Wine Tasting Guide & Journal for only $4.95 (plus S&H)? It's unique and available from this website. Please proceed to the "Buy Now" button on the right to order.

Bob in Beamsville

2009-09-25T08:44:00.002-04:00

What a perfect weekend to visit Ontario’s Niagara wine region. Last week we visited the Beamsville area to check out some wines from the Niagara Escarpment. What a jewel, just under a dozen premium wineries clustered along Locust Lane makes for an easy visit, no long drives between tastings here. We stopped by Angel’s Gate, Rosewood, Fielding, Thirty Bench and Peninsula Ridge, but could have done more.

The view of Lake Ontario from the tasting room at Fielding was breath taking, and you have to love the artisan cheese tasting at Peninsula. All the wineries are housed in architecturally beautiful buildings. Wines of note were Fielding’s fruit-driven Chardonnay Musqué, Thirty Bench’s delicate, zesty Riesling and Peninsula’s quality Viognier and fruity Sauvignon Blanc. Of interest was a rarity in Niagara, a Semillon single varietal wine at Rosewood. The 2007 reds are beginning to appear in the tasting rooms as well. The warm, extended growing season of that year is evident in the ripe fruit flavours exhibited in the Cabs and Merlots.

Pocket Sommelier eBook for your PDA

2009-09-21T12:55:00.007-04:00

Looking for a mobile version of the Pocket Sommelier for your PDA? You can download one here.

Wine Tasting as an Ice Breaker

2009-09-14T13:34:00.002-04:00

Holding a conference for the whole company? Lots of people from out of town? Why not stage a wine tasting as an ice breaker! The Pocket Sommelier - Wine Tasting Guide & Journal makes a great companion to any corporate wine tasting event. Contact Pocket for special pricing for group orders.

Selling Australian Wine

2009-09-11T13:29:00.002-04:00

The Australian wine industry has always been at the forefront of marketing its product. Since the late 19th century, producers have been entering their products in regional wine shows, proudly displaying their awarded medals on the label. They have also mastered the concept of “wine tourism”, effectively promoting domestic consumption through the packaging of wine with other tourist activities in regions near major centres such as Perth, Sydney and Melbourne.

As primarily an exporting industry, 60% of all wine produced here is shipped elsewhere, Australia has recently gained a lot of attention for its various “critter campaigns”, ie., the use of mascots on their labels, the first of which was begun by Casella’s Yellow Tail.

Our New Wine Guy - Robert Parker

2009-09-10T15:31:00.004-04:00

Not thee Robert Parker, however, we are still very glad to announce that our friend Bob, recently along with Charles, has agreed to provide some wine reviews for our blog in the near future. You will find that Bob's style of reviewing wines is one that is honest and laid back.

Bob has no formal wine training or experience, but provides the sober point of view of the every day wine consumer.

DuVin's Take on Woodbridge Merlot

2009-08-30T12:14:00.003-04:00

Popular stuff, this Woodbridge Merlot. I can taste why - I'm not a big Merlot fan, but in true Californian style, this Merlot packs enough flavour and body to keep me happy. Fruit-forward with some oak-influence, this stuff is easy drinking and a good bridge for the wine newbie into something more interesting, such as the Cabernet Sauvignon. A good crowd pleaser, it will work with pizza and burgers, but with heavier grilled meats I'd prefer something with some tannin (eg. Cabernet). I left out the vintage, as it's usually irrelevant at this level - this wine is consistent from year-to-year.

Conglomerate Dominance in Australia

2009-08-25T08:29:00.001-04:00

Australia has over 2,000 wineries, most of them small, yet 90% of the crush is owned by 5 big conglomerates. This is mass production as its best, dominated by: Foster’s Group (Rosemount, Penfolds, Wolf Blass, Lindemans, and Wynns), Constellation of the United States (Hardys, Banrock Station), Pernod Ricard of France (Jacob’s Creek, Wyndham Estates), Casella (Yellow Tail), and Mcguigan Simeon.

Charles is in charge!

2009-08-22T14:28:00.005-04:00

The Pocket Sommelier is pleased to announce the addition of Charles DuVin as blog contributor. Charles has extensive experience in the wine industry, from hands-on vineyard "jack-of-all-trades" to master sommelier. Look for Charles' posts in the coming months.

PayPal is here!

2009-08-19T11:29:00.001-04:00

You can now purchase individual paperback versions of The Pocket Sommelier safe and easily through PayPal at http://pocketsommelier.blogspot.com!

Australia's Fortified "Stickies"

2009-08-14T14:59:00.003-04:00

Liqueur Muscat (made from Brown Muscat) and Liqueur Tokay (made from Muscadelle) are two famous styles of fortified dessert wines made in Australia. The juice from overripened and partially shrivelled grapes are partially fermented then fortified with grape spirit and left to “bake” in the barrels stored under tin roofs. The Rutherglen area of Victoria is the most notable region. These wines have a deep coloured orange colour with aromas of smoky tangerine, marmalade and flavours of creamy milk chocolate, dates and candied orange.

FREE Wine Tasting Journal

2009-08-05T08:39:00.000-04:00

You can request your free Pocket Sommelier Wine Tasting Journal from Chris at pocketsommelier@yahoo.ca. You will receive a pdf copy ready for printing into a 2-sided booklet with enough structured wine tasting note sheets for over 100 wines!

FREE pdf preview - Wine Tasting Guide

2009-07-24T09:32:00.005-04:00

If you are interested in The Pocket Sommelier - Wine Tasting Guide & Journal, we are offering a preview of the guide. See the side bar to the right.

Hardcopies of the guide are great for wine tasting parties, trips to wine country and as gifts - refer to the list of retailers on the right for availability in your area. If you do not have a retailer in your area, individual copies can be order on the side bar to the right. For larger orders, e-mail The Pocket Sommelier for ordering instructions.

Hunter Valley

2009-07-23T08:46:00.001-04:00

Located just 130 km north of Sydney, the Hunter Valley’s close proximity to this major urban area has provided the conditions for the development of a thriving tourism industry around its wine culture.

When speaking of the Hunter Valley, it is usually referred to in terms of its components two main components: the Lower Hunter and the Upper Hunter.

The Lower Hunter has a subtropical climate, with very hot and humid summers and heavey rainfall. It is not an ideal climate for grape growing. The valley vineyard soil is composed of red volcanic loam with alluvial sands and silts. Also found in the area is basalt, which provide the wines with a mineral flavour. The benchmark wine here is made of Semillon. The grapes are usually picked early, before fully ripening. This produces a grassy, citrus wine in youth, that eventually ages into a green-gold colour, with toasty and mineral aromas with lots of flavour.
Also found here is Chardonnay, in a full bodied style. Verdelho is making a comeback in this region. The Shiraz is soft, earthy, and spicey with long finish. In better vintages the wines can be age-worthy, developing leathery notes. Cabernet Sauvignon is not an important varietal here – it does not do well with the rain.

In contrast to the Lower Hunter, the Upper Hunter is a much drier region. Chardonnay is big here, established in the 1970’s by Rosemount. Also common is Semillon, grown on sandy, alluvian soil.

Thinking of holding a Wine Tasting Party?

2009-07-22T13:36:00.000-04:00

Are you and your friends thinking of holding a Wine Tasting Party? I can't think of anything more fun than sitting around and boozin' it up with your buddies, while legitimizing it with some wine appreciation at the same time!

If you are new at running one of these things, consider The Pocket Sommelier - Wine Tasting Guide & Journal. A preview is available on this site, as are retailers currently carrying the product. If no retailer is available in your area, let me know at pocketsommelier@yahoo.ca and I'll take care of your order.

Tasmania

2009-07-22T08:35:00.000-04:00

Tasmania is Australia’s most southern wine growing region. The vineyards of this cool climate island state are either located on the north coast or on the south east coast surrounding Hobart. Tasmania’s vineyards are on the same latitude as New Zealand’s. The island has rich soil, however cultural practices and coastal winds ensure limited yields and promote slower ripening.

Tasmania’s cool climate result in grapes with high natural acidity – attractive for sparkling wine production. As such, you will find a lot of Pinot Noir here, comprising 40% of all grape production. Much of the grapes are transported to the mainland for production into sparkling wine. Some grapes, however, don’t make the trip and end up in Yalumba’s Jansz brand of sparkling wine.

Small producers dominate the local grape growing industry, resulting in fairly high production costs. Even so, they are engaged in the production of a variety of cool climate grapes. In addition to Pinot Noir, Tasmania’s Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are racy and delicate. Chardonnay is also common. Cabernet Sauvignon can also ripen here.

Victoria

2009-07-21T08:49:00.000-04:00

Victoria is Australia’s most varied State in terms of wine making. Until near the end of the 19th century, Victoria was on par with New South Wales and South Australia for quantity until phylloxera wiped out most of its industry. Today, Victoria has over 600 wineries but ranks third in overall wine production due to the lack of a mass bulk wine-producing area.

Murray Darling and Swan Hill represent Victora’s warm climate regions, situated along the Murray River in the north west of the State. East along the Murray, is the region of Rutherglen, home to fortified dessert wines made from raisined Muscat. Victoria’s other wine regions are generally cooler - the Yarra Valley region near Melbourne is producing delicate, European-style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Producers looking to expand are shifting more towards the cooler climates of the region, either south to the sea or into the hills, in order to produce wines of greater structure.

Clare Valley

2009-07-20T11:29:00.000-04:00

The Clare Valley is composed of a series of narrow north-south valleys. It’s actually one of the more northernly wine growing regions in the State of South Australia and in effect quite isolated. Not a big tourist draw, the Clare Valley economy is dominated by farming. There’s no dominate influence from the large conglomerates either – the region is home to mostly small, independent producers.

This is a hot and dry region that allows producers to strive for lower yields and concentrated flavours by limiting irrigation. The cool evenings that accompany the valley’s high altitude ensures the preservation of acidity in the grapes, therefore avoiding the need for the addition of acid common in other hot regions. The Clare Valley is composed of a diverse make-up of soil, from limestone based terra rosa soil to red loam overlaying clay.

In regards to the grapes themselves, they produce some very fine wine. Riesling is produced here in a dry steely style, with distinctive aromas of lime and eventually toast. This is Riesling made for food. Producers here pioneered the use of screwcaps, believing that they are superior to cork in preserving their wines. Other notably whites include Chardonnay and Semillon, that range from light and delicate to full bodied. You’ll also find the reds here too – most notably Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, made in a well-structured manner with good acidy, chewy mouthfeel and plummy aromas.

Barossa Valley

2009-07-20T09:05:00.000-04:00

There’s probably no wine region as well known in Australia as the Barossa Valley. Home to internationally reknowned Shiraz, this low lying valley region located along the Murray River in South Australia is bombarded by extremely hot and dry weather. Needless to say, irrigation is a must. The soil in diverse here, you’ll find sandy, clay loam soil, limestone soils.

Thanks to very old and low yielding vines exposed to little natural moisture, Barossa’s Shiraz is a richly concentrated elixir of chocolate and spice. The problem is, however, obtaining balance. The early ripening grapes struggle to retain enough acidity. Also, overripened grapes can contain too much tannin, forcing winemakers to limit maceration time. In order to restore balance in the wines, tannin and acid have to be reintroduced during fermentation. The wine will then be rounded out by transferring the Shiraz before fermentation is complete to American oak for an infusion of sweetness and smoothness.

Other reds found in the valley include the Rhône varietals Grenace and Mataro (aka Mourvèdre). They are often blended with Shiraz into the popular GSM. Barossa Valley also produces some popular Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Barossa Valley is not a strict domain of reds, however. Fine Chardonnay, Riesling and Semillon grapes planted on hillsides do well thanks to the cooling sea breezes. Viognier also appears, sometimes blended in small amounts with Shiraz for added perfume and colour stability.

Guide to Australian Wine to be Released Soon!

2009-07-17T14:01:00.000-04:00

The latest addition to the Pocket Sommelier series, THE WINES OF AUSTRALIA – A BEGINNER’S GUIDE, is to be release soon! Explore the history, grapes and wine regions of this diverse part of the wine world.

McLaren Vale

2009-07-17T09:19:00.000-04:00

McLaren Vale is the most significant region in the Fleurieu Zone, located south of the city of Adelaide, in South Australia. McLaren Vale is home to old vine Shiraz, as well as Grenache and Mourvèdre. These mature vines provide Shiraz from this area with its distinctive mocha and earthy aromas.

The region is located in a coastal area, where sea breezes aid in cooling the vines, allowing the grapes to maintain their acidity. The coast also supplies good rainfall, therefore avoiding the need for irrigation. The soil is quite diverse here, from sandy to clay to limestone.
McLaren Vale’s fruit is in so much demand by the large conglomerates that half of the it ends up blended with wines from other regions. Home to Thomas Hardy & Sons, you’ll also find Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc planted here.

South Australia

2009-07-14T08:12:00.000-04:00

Located in the south-centre of the Australian continent, South Australia is the wine industry’s powerhouse State, producing half of the nation’s wine and home to Australia’s wine and grape vine research organizations. The State also boasts some of the oldest vines in the world. These vines, through strict quarantine restrictions, survived the great phylloxera plagues that devastated the vines of North America and Europe, and eventually, Australia’s eastern vineyards.

The State has a diversity of regions. Significant production exists in climates ranging from temperate, to maritime, to cooler high altitudes, and finally intensely hot and dry inland areas.

Western Australia

2009-07-13T08:50:00.000-04:00

Isolated from the rest of the Australia on the western third of the continent, the State of Western Australia is Australia’s largest. Its wine industry, including the three main wine regions of Swan Valley, Margaret River and Great Southern, are located in the south-western portion of the State, near the coastline.
While intensely hot in the northern wine growing region of Swan Valley, Antartic currents and sea breezes temper the climate further south in Margaret River and Great Southern. This tempering allows for the production of premium wine with sound structure and full ripeness. Although Western Australia produces only 3% of Australia’s grapes, it is responsible for 20% of the country’s premium wine production.

The "Flying Winemakers"

2009-07-07T09:28:00.000-04:00

As the Australian harvest is winding down, vineyards in the Nothern Hemisphere are just beginning to experience bud burst. While the latest harvest sits in tanks and barrels at home, Aussie “Flying Winemakers” spend the winter in the summer of Europe and North America, exporting their highly trained technological knowledge abroad, while at the same time expanding their own.

2009-06-19T08:36:00.001-04:00

The Australian “Appellation” System

2009-06-19T08:19:00.000-04:00

Australia has never had a culture of a strict “appellation” system similar to any of those that exist in Europe. The only reason for the existence of the contemporary system, developed in the 1990’s, was to conform to European Union export regulations.

The Australian system law is based on the concept of Geographical Indication (GI). A GI is an official description of an Australian wine “zone”, “region”, or “sub-region” designed to protect the use of the regional name under international law. The system is similar to the Appellation system in Europe, but much less restrictive in terms of viticultural and winemaking practices.

There are 3 principles to the system:

- where a variety is specified, 85% of the wine is made of that grape;
- where a region is specified, 85% of the wine is made from grapes originating from that region;
- where a vintage is specified, 85% of the wine is made from grapes from that vintage.

In instances where more than one grape (or region) is specified, they are listed in descending order. For example, a wine specified as “Cabernet – Shiraz” will have more Cabernet than Shiraz.

GI descriptions defined:

ZONE – is an area of land, without any particular qualifying attributes.

REGION – a single tract of land, comprising at least 5 independently owned wine grape vineyards of a least 5 hectares each and usually produce 500 tonnes of wine grapes in a year. A region is required to be measurably discrete from adjoining regions and have measurable homogeneity in grape growing attributes over its area.

SUB-REGION – also a single tract of land, comprising of at least 5 independently owned vineyards of a least 5 hectares each and usually produce 500 tonnes of wine grapes in a year. However, a sub-region is required to be substantially discrete within the region and have substantial homogeneity in grape growing attributes over the area.

There are 27 wine zones encompassing over 60 designated wine regions.

The largest and most common zone is the hugely encompassing “South Eastern Australia” zone, which basically includes all wine growing states with the exception of Western Australia.

20th Century and Today

2009-06-17T10:14:00.001-04:00

Thanks to a shortage of beer and demand from a thirsty US and Australian military during WWII, domestic wine consumption in Australia sharply increased. The subsequent influx of post-war immigrants from Europe maintained consumption levels, but demanded a shift from the traditional sweet fortified sherry and port style wines, commonly made in Australia at the time, to drier table wine. The most notable pioneer in dry wine production was Penfold’s “The Grange” winery in South Australia – during the 1950’s the winery made its first attempts at making quality dry Shiraz. Eventually a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon was added to create what is today Australia’s signature, and most collectible, wine.

The shift was also apparent in the vineyard. 85% of the grapes grown in Australia during the 1950’s were of multi-purpose varieties (eating, drying and wine making). By the 21st century, only 10% were of multi-purpose varietes, the remaining 90% being premium wine grapes.

Thanks to the Australian development of big, bold, easy drinking Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, table wine took hold as the dominate style by the mid-1970’s, and continued to grow with the Australian invention of “bag in box” packaging in 1980. By the late 1980’s exports had begun to explode, mostly to fellow British Commonwealth nations.

Today, 60% of the grapes grown in Australia are of the big three – Chardonnay/Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon. Australia produces only 4% of the total world wine production but is the 4th largest exporter by volume. Australia exports approximately 805 million litres of wine, valued at $3 billion Australian annually. On the farm, there are 160,000 hectares under vine with over 2,100 producers harvesting 1.3 million tonnes of grapes for wine production annually.

From Meager Beginnings

2009-06-16T09:04:00.000-04:00

Viticulture of any sort first appeared on the Australian continent near the end of the 18th century. Captain Arthur Phillip, the first governor of New South Wales, was instrumental in the development of the first vineyards on the then outskirts of Sydney, bringing with him Australia’s first grape vines from the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa.

Early viticulture in Australia certainly had its challenges. A land with no native species of grapes, it was inhabited by British colonialists with no knowledge of the vine and with a preference for ale and spirits. The skill and market for early Australian wine just did not exist at the time.

The Australian wine scene finally started to develop in 1820, when James Busby, after touring vineyards in Spain and France, brought with him 362 different varietals and a wealth of knowledge. His many travels to Europe demonstrated that Australian wine could travel, therefore providing optimism for future exports.

By the mid-19th century, Australian vineyards had developed to a commercial level, albeit a small one, in Sydney and further north in the Hunter Valley. At the same time, activity in Victoria and Western Australia took root. However, it was in South Australia where the foundations of a serious commercial wine industry began, a large part thanks to strict quarantine restrictions on the movement of plant material that protected the state’s vineyards from the phylloxera epidemic of the 1870’s.

As the century progressed, blind tasting competitions in Europe promoted Australian wines abroad. By the end of the 19th century, with the help of its preferred trading status within the British Commonwealth, Australia was exporting a significant quantity of wine to Great Britain, much of it fortified.

The creation of the modern Australia in the early 20th century mean’t the end of inter-state tariffs on wine. The free trade of wine allowed South Australia’s large industry to invade the lucrative urban markets in New South Wales and Victoria and provided the conditions for the creation of the large wine conglomerates that dominate the Australian industry today.

Other Australian Whites

2009-06-02T11:27:00.000-04:00

Riesling

The main challenge for most of Australia’s hot growing regions stem from the fact that the grape just cannot maintain enough acidity to make these wines comparable to the great rieslings of Germany and Alsace.

Good bets are found in the Clare and Eden Valleys of South Australia, Great Southern in Western Australia, and Yarra Valley in Victoria. They are still richer and fuller than their European versions, and usually without that “fresh” characteristic so common with traditional Rieslings. However, they do exhibit similar lemon-lime and petrol aromas and oily texture.

Verdelho

Verdelho vines were sourced from of all places, the Portugese island of Madeira. It produces a full bodied wine, and its popularity in the export market is growing, after almost disappearing from the Australian scene. Plantings of Verdelho can be found in the Hunter Valley in New South Wales, Swan Valley in Western Australia and Southern Australia.

Other Australian Reds

2009-06-02T11:26:00.001-04:00

Pinot Noir

Most of Australia’s wine growing region are too hot for growing world-class pinot noir. In addition, much is consumed in the production of sparkling wine. However, specific pockets in Australia are producing very fine pinots, specifically around the city of Melbourne, Victoria – the cooler, higher altitudes in the Yarra Valley tend to avoid the jammy characteristics that over power the more delicate characteristics found in the classic style of pinot noir.

Also, pinot from the Margaret River in Western Australia are up and coming. As for other examples of Burgundian-style pinot, look no further than Tasmania.

Grenache

In great demand is the Grenache from 100 year old vines from McLaren Vale and the Barossa Valley in South Australia.

Australia has, for a long time, produced a very popular red wine in the Rhone Valley style with it so called “GSM”, a blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro (Mourvedre). The invasion of Cabernet Sauvignon quickly knocked GSM off as the top produced red wine in Australia. However, with the resurgence in popularity of the Rhone varietals has brought this wine back to prominence.

Merlot

As elsewhere, production of merlot has soared with the massive increase in popularity of this grape. Typical in the Australian style of red wines, the merlot produced here is made in an easy-drinking style. Medium bodied, these wines are supple due to their low tannins and exhibit sweet, red berry flavours.

Australian Shiraz

2009-05-01T11:06:00.000-04:00

Yes, the shiraz grape is the same grape as syrah. The differences between the two are due to the unique growing conditions, cultural practices and vinification techniques found in Australia.

Australia has the oldest “syrah” grapes in the world. Planted in the late-nineteenth century in excess in South Australia, these vines escaped the ravages of the phylloxera epidemic. Until 20 years ago, these vines were actually considered a pest, but efforts in producing world class wines from them has paid dividends.

European-style syrah is usually more “spicey”, whereas the Australian-style is more “fruit forward”, with lots of plum, toffee, chocolate aromas – jammy is a commonly used term to describe shiraz.
The Barossa Valley in South Australia is the source of Penfolds Grange, thee benchmark wine for Australian Shiraz.

Australian Semillon

2009-04-30T11:17:00.000-04:00

Unique to Australia, the Hunter Valley in New South Wales in particular, is its style of single varietal semillon. Crisp in youth, with hints of lime, the addition of some aging with a mild amount of oak will develop roasted nut aromas and an oily texture.

Also traditional to Australia is a botrysized style of Semillon, which is more intense and fuller bodied than Sauternes.

Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-04-17T08:18:00.000-04:00

Australia’s cabernet sauvignon wines typify the so called “New World” style of winemaking – the creation of wines with “high drinkability”. Generally fruity, juicy, with lots of oak but low on tannin, these wines are all about the cassis and blackcurrent flavours, served up with a soft, creamy texture.

The state of South Australia is the largest producer, with the Barossa Valley as its flagship region. Also in South Australia, the Coonawarra region has established itself as a unique place for cabernet. Its terra rosa coloured soils are credited with providing Coonawarra’s cabernet with chocoloate and mocha characteristics.

If the “fruit bomb” version of cabernet sauvignon is not your style, the Yarra Valley in Victoria is producing less intense cabernet, with hints of mint, more similar to the Bordeaux-style.

Australian Chardonnay

2009-04-14T09:11:00.000-04:00

Who hasn’t tasted Australian chardonnay? Australia’s most produced white grape variety is synonymous with luscious, full-bodied chardonnay packed with oak-injected vanilla and butterscotch flavours. I, for one, cannot remember a time when wine store shelves were not stocked full of the stuff, in fact, Australian exports of this style of chardonnay have been invading the wine retail world since the 1980’s.

The typical Australian style is big and ripe, thanks to the grapes’ high sugar levels that develop in the country’s hot and dry climate – an alcohol level reaching 14% is not at all uncommon. However, the sweetness that this style exhibits poses a challenge to most Australian wine makers. The big flavours and body have high appeal, but are these wines balanced? For most wine aficionados, and winemakers alike, the answer is typically no, and therefore additions of tartaric acid are normal during fermentation.

Another challenge with the Australian style is matching it with food. Due to its tendency to overpower anything in its wake, diners should steer clear of lighter dishes and focus their attention on heavier dishes, such as seafood in cream sauce, or even grilled steak.

For fans of this style, you won’t find a better region in Australia to focus on than the Barossa Valley, in the state of South Australia. Most of the chardonnay in this state is the result of giant blends of grapes sourced from various growing regions, sometimes far from the winery itself. The goal is to produce, year after year, wines of consistency, as opposed to wine that exhibits particular characteristics of vintage or place.

For those who don’t like this style, don’t worry, there are producers in cooler wine growing regions in Australia, such as Margaret River in Western Australia and the Yarra Valley in Victoria, attempting to produce finer, more subtler Chablis-style chardonnay. These wines are more food friendly, and if you can find them, I suggest you check them out.

Domaine Faillenc Sainte Marie 2006 AOC Corbières

2009-03-07T15:52:00.000-05:00

Corbières is a large AOC in the south of France, near the Mediterranean, part of the even larger region of Languedoc-Rousillon. This offering from Domaine Faillenc Sainte Marie has a deep ruby hue and is opaque. I imagine this wine is unfiltered.

I don’t note any barrel influence in this wine, but at $14, don’t expect too many French wines to be aged in oak. What I do get is lots of red berry fruit – cherry and raspberry, with a hint of floral at the end. There’s also some sweet spice and white pepper, probably due to an addition of Syrah to this predominately Carignan blend.

Nice balance to this wine, certainly some tannin from the Syrah, as evident from the grippy mouth feel, offset by its crisp acidity.

This wine is bone dry, with a generous amount of alcohol at 13.5%, yet it doesn’t feel heavy on the palette - a good food wine. I’d pair it with a tomato-based sauce.

The raspberry finish is medium lengthed, quite decent for such a young wine.

Overall, a well structured wine and good value for the money. Did I mention that it's organic? I score this one a 78.

Fuzion 2008 - Shiraz/Malbec Argentina

2009-02-23T10:55:00.000-05:00

Well, what do you say about a red wine from 2008 that I'm writing about in February 2009? Obviously this wine went straight from the tank to the bottle, no barrel in between. At below $8 a bottle, barrel aging would certainly be uneconomical, anyway. Where the lack of aging is evident in the simplicity of this wine, it certainly does not impact the intensity of its fruit profile, in which this little baby exhibits in spades.

Clear ruby in colour, with fairly intense black cherry and prune aromas (yes, for once I actually agree with the back label), and throw in some stewed berries and jam.

This simple wine is easy drinking, dry, yet a hint of sweetness on the tongue. Well balanced, with medium acid and a low tannin content. A medium to full bodied wine, nice to pair with a hearty burger and a side of sweet potato fries.

A delightful buy for the price - mega crowd pleaser here, once the party starts, you'll never have to put the screw back on! PS scores it a 76.

The Wines of Australia

2009-01-18T09:10:00.000-05:00

Come join The Pocket Sommelier as we explore Australia - its wines and regions - in the coming weeks.

The NEW Pocket Sommelier

2008-12-19T10:55:00.000-05:00

The Pocket Sommelier announces today that the Wine Tasting Guide & Journal has been improved! The higher quality printing and new binding style makes the guide even more attractive as before!

Contact your local home winemaking shop for availability.

Alazanis Valley Red Wine 2005

2008-11-20T13:28:00.000-05:00

This opaque wine from Georgia, the country, not the US state, is ruby in colour. A bit of an odd one, with a simple enough aroma profile of cherry and raspberry, accompanied by some nutmeg.

Semi-sweet and medium bodied, with a noticeable spritz on the tongue. Easy drinking with a short finish, hardly any tannin perceptible here. I would have preferred some grippeyness to balance out the sweetness.

When picnicking with spicey, fatty meat, give this wine a try. Pocket scores this one a 61.

Gemtree Vineyards Bloodstone Shiraz 2006

2008-09-28T11:46:00.000-04:00

Here’s an atypical Australian Shiraz from McLaren Vale in South Australia – yes, it’s full-bodied with 14.5% alcohol, but without the heavy jammy mouth feel and chocolate aroma drinkers are probably more accustomed with from Australian Shiraz.

This wine is dark red, bordering on brick, but lacks the typical inky hue.

A complex bouquet is evident - raspberry, licorice and smoke dominate on the nose. Black pepper is there, and surprisingly, notes of cinnamon appear as the wine opens up.

I’m not convinced that this wine is balanced – I would suspect that a wine of such ripeness (at 14.5%), with such a high acid level, experienced tartaric acid additions by the producer prior to fermentation – a practice not at all uncommon in the production of white wine in Australia.

A nice, medium to long berry finish with an interesting structure – the high acid level makes this more of a food wine than a wine to be consumed on its own. It certainly has the acid to stand up to tomato sauce dishes, and would go well with barbecued sausages.

Pocket scores this one a 76.

Viticoltori Alto Adige Lagrein San Pietro 2005

2008-07-30T08:12:00.001-04:00

Wines from Alto-Adige, a province bordering Austria in northeast Italy, are a rare site in North America. Quite a shame, as this German-speaking part of Italy produces some very fine wines.

Pocket tasted Viticoltori Alto Adige Lagrein San Pietro 2005. Made from the Lagrein grape, this wine is a deep ruby, exhibiting red fruit aromas of cherry, raspberry and strawberry. Subtle aromas of earth, leather, vanilla and cocoa round out the bouquet.

Atypical of Lagrein, which is usually acidic and tannic, this version was quite supple, with medium acid and low tannin. The experience ends with a satisfying raspberry finish.

Medium to full bodied at 13% alcohol, this dry wine is well structured, but not overly complex. A great match with a variety of foods and fairly priced around $15.

Pocket scores this one a 79.

The Pocket Sommelier Gets Pinned!

2008-06-09T19:54:00.000-04:00

Earlier this month, The Pocket Sommelier received the prestigious sommelier pin as recognition for completing Algonquin College's Sommelier Certificate Program.

Way to go, Pocket!

For more info about Algonquin College's Sommelier Program visit www.sommelier.ca .

NAVIP Muscat Ottonel 2005

2008-05-31T18:14:00.000-04:00

Wine is truly an adventure of discovery. Case in point - this Serbian import, with a brilliant yellow hue, is full of intense tangerine and orange blossom aromas, backed-up by rosewater, honey, and a touch of citrus zest.

Slightly offdry and intensly fruity, this wine still has enough acid to remain balanced and fresh. Although it's 12% alcohol with some residual sugar, this wine is lighter than one would expect. Medium-long tangarine finish, with a bit of grapefruit rind to close out the experience.

Overall, this guy is easy drinking - orange/tangarine characteristics dominate from nose to mouth.

I'd say you'd be hard pressed to find a similarly complex wine at this price point - $7.65 in Ontario. Enjoy with spicy Thai food.

Pocket scores this one a 81.

Concannon Petite Sirah 2004

2008-05-08T14:38:00.000-04:00

Petite Sirah as a single varietal wine? Only in California, where winemakers have discovered how to make this usually tannic grape into a big, bold, velvety fruit bomb.

The first producer to make Petite Sirah into a single varietal wine was Concannon. We tasted their 2004 version.

Deep ruby in colour, the wine's intense aromas of dark berries, pepper and dried fruit is typical of big, bold California reds. The winemaker's success in restraining the high tannin of this grape has resulted in a velvety wine with balance on the palette. The ripe fruit lingers on the palette for what seems to be an eternity.

Pair with grilled flank steak in a peppercorn sauce.